Posted by: tomciocco | April 21, 2013


The Beaune’s St-Aubin A.O.C. produces more red wine by volume than white, but considering the stature of the white Burgs produced by its neighbors, the local consortium for St-Aubin might consider a move to reverse those percentages. So who are these fancy-schmancy neighbors? Well, on one side, there’s a little appellation called Puligny-Montrachet and on the other, none other than the very plump but  still very fine Meursault. But due to the play between St-Aubin’s quite warm, mostly south and southwest facing vineyards, and its thin, stony soil resting on a dense limestone substrate, St-Aubin Chardonnays are much closer in character to the balance of Puligny-Montrachet than they are to Meursault’s weighty richness. St-Aubin whites are typically taut and bright in their youth, but fill out and gain some weight and greater complexity with age…not unlike…No…I won’t…

For such a relatively obscure Burgundian zone, St-Aubin has 30 Premier Cru vineyards, with this wine coming from one of them – the very southernmost En Remilly site. This particular cuvee` is made from fruit harvested from 25+ year old vines whose musts are then barrel fermented with indigenous yeasts in 20% new/80% used oak barriques, and then aged for 10 months, again in a mix of  20% new/80% used oak barriques. The wine is only lightly filtered before bottling.

I put this very energetic and faceted wine with a classic soupe d’oignon a` la Lyonnaise as a first course, and then a very simple but tasty main course of browned, boneless chicken breasts in an eau de vie, creme fraiche, and Dijon mustard sauce, with a side dish of carrots braised with olive oil, parsley, and garlic.












Sylvain Langoureau St-Aubin Premier Cru “En Remilly” 2011

Quite greenish, coppery golden color. Very elegant nose of flinty lemon, lime, and fresh pineapple fruit notes, supported with aromas of light caramel, wild fennel, pannacotta, fresh herbs and lettuce, and fine oatmeal. The palate is full, intense, and solid, with a light unctuousness that is balanced by a slightly austere and complex dry acidity and flavors of crisp apple, ripe pear, apricot, roasted nuts, dried sage, and powdered ginger. Very long chalky, tart melon finish.



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