Posted by: tomciocco | March 1, 2012

NEBBIOLO MINUS THE TONY ADDRESSES…

…and at least a year or two or more of barrel age. Most of the money spent and ink spilled on wines made from the Nebbiolo grape are about the 2 Big “B”s, and the two little “G”s, i.e. Barolo and Barbaresco, Gattinara and Ghemme.  All four of the these prestigious Piedmontese appellations have long histories, are populated by world-class producers and prized, named vineyard plots with monikers like Rio Sordo and Santo Stefano di Perno whose wines can easily reach 3 figure-a-bottle prices from the top vinai.

So if some of the best Big “B”s and little “G”s are Ferraris and Lamborghinis, tonight’s wine is a plucky, cute, and indestructable old FIAT 500. This is quite literally a reallyclassy wine made by and for the people. The people to which I’m referring (on the production end) are the great Produttori del Barbaresco…

I’ve said it before, and I’ll say it again, Produttori del Barbaresco is one of, if not the best co-operative wineries in the world. Comprised of 56 member/growers who have agreed to certain high vineyard standards, the association, as is clear from their name, makes the production of  Barbaresco its primary ragione d’essere. This wine is their ultra-fine “jug” drink if you will…Its official classification is “Langhe” (LAHN-gei) which can be a blend of an arrayof native and foreign grape varieties, or made from certain single grapes (Nebbiolo in this case) like this one.  Whether derived from fruit from younger vines and/or the second cut of fruit from the older vines, it’s nevertheless made from 100% Nebbiolo like the Big “B”s and  little “G”s, making it a sort of “unadorned” foundation of these noble wines with the grape as the only constant factor.

I served this educated quaffer with a first course of spaghetti with a braised sauce of pancetta, slivered sweet onions, and shredded radicchio, and then a main course of turkey meatballs with marjoram and rosemary in a tomato sauce with white wine and thyme, and plain old mashed potatoes.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Produttori del Barbaresco Langhe Nebbiolo 2010 

Just transparent, slightly purple deep ruby color. Layered nose of new leather, cranberry, fennel seed, dried mint, pines needles, and violets. The medium-weight body is velvety smooth, but tautly structured with fine but sharpened tannins, suffused with clear and juicy flavors of marasca cherries, fresh strawberries, and ground white spices. The finish is energetically tart and dry. A wine of youthfully spunky elegance.

Advertisements

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s

Categories

%d bloggers like this: