Posted by: tomciocco | March 14, 2011

A CATALAN WINE WITH A MANIFESTO

As I’ve often complained about before, and am likely to do again, despite my love for all things Catalan,  too many Catalan wine producers are chasing money or someone else’s idea of what great wine should be, but here’s another producer from Catalunya that bucks this trend and takes terroir SERIOUSLY. Rather than recapitulate this group of Spanish producers’ entire winemaking philosophy, I link to it here , and to this wine’s producer, Laureano Serres Montegut  , as well…

In reading through PVN’s winemaking principles, it’s clear to me that they have simply and succinctly given shape to transparency, sustainability, and common sense in winemaking – a sort of a sensible, realistic wholistic approach. “Do as little as you can, and only as much as you have to”  is how I would distill their approach.

And this league’s fundamentally hands-off approach is apparent from the moment you pull the cork from the capsule-less bottle, with the gamey, concentrated fruit springing right from the neck, and the exceptionally vibrant color of the wine practically launching itself from the mouth on pouring…Despite a lot of poking around, I couldn’t track down the precise grape blend in this wine (if anyone knows for sure, shoot me a message below), but after drinking it, I’d bet it’s most Carinyena (Carignan) with some Garnatxa, and a bit of Syrah or maybe Cabernet Sauvignon…and maybe some partial carbonic maceration too?

In keeping with my usual regional eating and drinking game, I served this wine with crepes (called crespons in Catalan) smeared with a cooked down hash of spinach and cremini mushrooms with garlic and a bit of thyme, rolled up, and baked in a bechamel sauce. The main course was a one-pot paella-like rice dish so common in Catalunya – this one with chick peas, salt cod, saffron, tomatoes, and roasted red peppers.

Laureano Serres Montegut Mendall “Poc A Poc” Catalunya Vi Roig 2009

Truly electric “grapey” purple/magenta color. Exotic nose of sap, mayonnaise, Indian spices, dried herbs, roasted meat, and chalky watermelon  and mulberry fruit. The medium-full body is dense, intense, and well-structured but still very natural and easy with a satiny texture and flavors of sandalwood, pickle spices, fresh blood, and sour cherry and pomegranate fruit. Flavors of melted grape popsicle (!) echo out on the sweet and sour finish. A powerful, unusual, and rustic wine.

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Responses

  1. Yes,variety it’s ok!!(in this case there is some macabeo too, i fact this wine comes from de rest of bottling other cuvées. I don’t filter the wine and I think i better not bottle the entire tank, so i put ten part not bottled in another tank….so it’s the name ‘poc a poc’ =’little by little’.
    SAlut

    • Hello Laureano-

      Great to get information directly from the horse’s mouth (Laureano is the winemaker)! So if I’m correct, rather than filtering, you are doing a slow, staged racking, right?

      Do you do any experimentation with rare Catalan grape varieties like Garro`, Trepat, etc.?

      Congratulations once again on making real, honest wine that respects the grapes, the earth, and the drinker!


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