Posted by: tomciocco | September 9, 2010

PROVENCAL ROSE` – STILL PROBABLY THE BEST

The “pink” wine tradition is a long one in Provence, and damn if it doesn’t show. Certain cousins in the Loire do lovely things with pink wine. The Spanish do rose` quite well too. And lately, places with little to no rose` tradition at all like Italy and Austria have found varieties in their respective national and regional vineyards that are well suited to rose` production, and indeed now turn out bold and expressive wines.

But for my currency units, the roses from France’s extreme southeast are still the best. Whether it’s the wide array of grapes growers have to work with, the soils, the super-sunny climate, the rose`-making savoir faire, or the most likely explanation, all of these factors, the pink stuff from Provence for me fundamentally defines the style. They are the roses that are just as comfortable dressed in pink as Riesling is wearing white or Nebbiolo is robed in red, and yet they are plainly neither.

Like all rose` wines, they are ultra-versatile, so with the blood red Jersey tomatoes popping out everywhere  (these from the Hoboken farmer’s market) I HAD to make BLTs,  – actually a jacked up BLT/herbed egg salad double-decker club sandwich with home made cole slaw. I opened with a Bulgarian-style yogurt/cucumber/dill chilled soup.

Chateau de Pourcieux Cotes de Provence Rose` 2009  

Orangy butterscotch salmon color. Clean nose of leather, strawberry, herbs, burnt orange peel, sea spray,and a hint of black licorice. The rich, round, almost corpulent body is full of intense, sweet, punchy sangria fruit while still maintaining a fresh acid/tannin balance.

 

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