Posted by: tomciocco | May 7, 2010


A “vin de merde” this is not! Yes, Beaujolais might be the near the top of the list of underachieving French wine regions, but the great Jean-Marc Burgaud’s wines always remind me that Beaujolais is after all Burgundy’s most southerly subdivision. All too often Gamay (Beaujolais’ grape variety) is wan, edgy, and even downright vinegary, but not here. Let’s be clear though, Gamay should always be able to cut through fat, protein, and vegetation like a well whetted scythe, and this wine is no exception, but you can happily move ahead quite a few steps from there in terms of depth and elegance.

Thinking that an all-beef meatloaf might overwhelm this wine, I went for a beef/pork blend, Scarborough Fair herbs,  sautéed mushrooms, egg, bread, tomato paste…this is just to give you an idea of the “cut” of the loaf in question, because the world has absolutely no need or desire for another meatloaf recipe. Alongside the loaf I wilted and fried some spinach in butter with a few scrapes of nutmeg. I re-worked a few containers of leftovers to make some cheese, roasted asparagus, and sweet and our caramelized cipolline toasts, served of course as an appetizer, and pictured just below….tasting notes too…


Almost translucent true garnet color. Vinous, cherry cola, delicately spicy nose. The palate presents a lively but round and clear disc of juicy strawberry and raspberry fruit with a velvety-textured mid-palate and a surprisingly sturdy tannic finish.


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